Maintenance Q&A Archive
Do chimney powders work? Are there any dangers?
How effective are creosote powder cleaners?
The brand I have is [****], and the active ingredient is cupric
chloride. Are there any dangers to the use of this material, and
are the ashes of concern as far as toxicity is concerned?
Thanks for your help,
James
Hi James,
Here is an excerpt from the Wood Energy Technical Training reference
manual, part of the Canadian training and certification system for wood
heat technicians and inspectors:
" Chloride-based
powders, containing copper, zinc, or other metals, are the
oldest form of chimney chemical. The active ingredients in these powders
are the heavy metals and chlorides which have the corrosive qualities of
salt. Chloride-based powders are effective only at high temperatures, so
they are sprinkled on an intense fire. Tests have shown that this form
of anti-creosote powder is not particularly effective and the
chloride-based powders attack steel and cast iron. Therefore,
chloride-based powders are not recommended."
I would also point out it has been found
more recently that the combustion of organic materials (like wood) in
the presence of chlorines/chlorides, such as salt, bleach, plastics and
so on, promotes the formation of the toxic pollutants dioxin and furan.
The best way to remove chimney deposits is
through brushing. If deposits form quickly or are difficult to remove,
the problem is fuel quality and firing technique.
If you really must use a chemical
treatment, look for manganese based liquids. They actually work somewhat
if used correctly.
John
What
to do about rust
on a stove?
Hello,
I have a question. We recently had installed a used wood burning stove
that was in perfect condition when we got it this past spring, but with
all the humidity we have experienced this summer, it has started to show
some rust. What is the best way to deal with the rust. Is there
something we should do to protect it? Perhaps some kind of oil? Moving
it
and
painting it is not an option.
Thank
you,
Barbara
Barbara,
I
have painted many stoves
right where
they are with no problems.
Stove
paint (at least the good stuff like Stove Bright) dries almost
instantly, and the cans have good nozzles that enable you to do a great
job without a lot of over-spray.
Use a cardboard shield to do edges, and open the windows and you'll have
your problem solved in 10 minutes.
Of course you'll have to steel wool off the rust first.
Cal
How do I
maintain my axe?
I am looking for good, specific
information on maintaining axes. How to sharpen properly, is it good
practice to put axes in water for a while to keep the handle from drying
out and preventing the the axe head from loosening, etc.
Hi,
I don't think there is much to maintaining an axe, at least I've never
had any problem. Here's what I do: I use a bench grinder to do general
shaping and nick removal, then I use a standard file to sharpen or touch
it up.
I've never found soaking in
water to be all that useful. I think it is better to do a good
installation of a new handle using wood wedges and glue. My experience
is that if the handle is put on properly once, it won't come loose.
John
Can I sweep my own chimney?
Thank you very much for the
information supplied in your sight. I was afraid to use my huge silver
maple as firewood and now you make it clear that it will work fine if
used properly. I have a question though - I am an avid do-it your-selfer
and would like to do my own chimney sweeping. I have very easy access to
my chimney and the chimney is a straight shot down only 13 feet. Is there any way I can be allowed to do this myself with
limited education related to my specific situation? Where can I find the
proper equipment and instruction?
Best regards, Paul
Paul,
Certainly you can clean your own chimney. If access is as easy as
you say, I could even do it!
Sweeping equipment is available at any good fireplace specialty store,
and some hardware and big box building supply stores. The brush
needs to fit the chimney properly, which is to say snug, but not too
tight. If your chimney is masonry, you may have to trim the
bristles of a wire or plastic brush to fit its shape. Metal chimneys and
liners are easy to get plastic brushes for since they are in three
standard sizes: 6, 7, and 8" round. Then all you need is some
rods for the brush and a decent vacuum to control the dust.
Happy sweeping,
Cal
Chains in chimneys and full liners
for inserts
Hi,
I have been heating my house with a woodstove for 25 years.
I use a freestanding stove in front of a fireplace. A 5"
flue exits the rear of the stove and passes through a plate in the
fireplace opening. I burn a
hot fire and clean the rectangular clay chimney yearly.
Over the years a slick, smooth hard coating of creosote has
developed on the chimney walls which a normal cleaning does not remove.
After some research I learned that a rotary chain device would
remove the material. Naturally,
my first question was, "What degree of damage does the chain do to
the chimney?" The
answer was, probably some. The
suggested remedy for the damage was a 5" stainless liner from the
stove to the top of the chimney. Question #1
Is the rotary chain method the best and/or only solution for
removing the hard slick creosote? Question #2
If an insulated stainless flue is installed from the stove to the
top of the chimney is it necessary or only desirable to remove the
coating first? Question #3 What effect on stove efficiency will the full length 5"
flu have as opposed to the current setup where the flue exits the stove
and only passes through the plate in front of the fireplace?
Thanks
Walt
Hi
Walt:
Question
#1 Is the rotary chain
method the best and/or only solution for removing the hard slick
creosote?
There
are chemicals available but they take patience since, as I understand
it, they only soften the surface, so it would take several applications
with brushings between. Chain
is not the only rotary option, in fact I think chain would do too much
damage. There is a creosote
removal tool that uses three loops of fairly thin stainless steel cable,
which I suspect is less brutal on the chimney. The looped cable
tool is used by a lot of chimney sweeps.
Question
#2 If an insulated
stainless flue is installed from the stove to the top of the chimney is
it necessary or only desirable to remove the coating first?
Yes,
it is strongly recommended because if the glaze creosote caught fire
outside the new liner, it would produce a nasty fire in a place that is
hard to get at. If you put
in the effort to clean it first, you'll feel a lot better about running
the stove afterwards. I like insulated liners but I wouldn't
insulate the liner from the stove to the original fireplace throat area
because this can lead to overheating and damage to the liner. Only
insulate the liner once it gets up into the chimney.
Question
#3 What effect on stove
efficiency will the full length 5" flu have as opposed to the
current setup where the flue exits the stove and only passes through the
plate in front of the fireplace?
I
expect you will find your stove transformed, at least that's what
customers of mine found (back when I had a retail store) when we relined
the chimney of an existing insert.
Your fires will light easier, built to a hot fire faster and, if
the liner is installed correctly and the stove run well, you'll only
ever have to remove flake and powder from the flue, not sticky creosote.
By
the way, a full liner to the top of the chimney is mandatory in Canada
for inserts and hearthmount stoves for just the reasons you found.
I think the US homeowner gets a raw deal from installers who
don't know enough to run full liners and from dealers who don't point
out the problems and risks. Just
because a 'direct connect' is cheap doesn't make it any good.
That's why we pushed for a regulation on full liners and got it
ten years ago. Here is an explanation of the advantages
of relining.
Good
luck with it.
John
What
should I do with my ashes?
I
am a new home owner with a woodstove insert that was already in the
house. We are enjoying the recent use of it and are looking forward to
heating our house with it while sharing the duties with the high
efficiency gas furnace we have.
The
question I had was regarding the ash leftover from periodic burning in
the woodstove. What do we do with it? I have been putting some in
our composter but could see it filling up over the winter with lack of
composting activity. Do I put some in the garden? What are my options in
an urban area of this size?
Thank
you very much for your time and I really appreciate the information of
the website, it was all very helpful. I look forward to using many of
the tips and techniques listed here and am looking forward to a season
of wood heating.
Thank
you for your time.
Peter
Hi
Peter,
Ash can be good for soils because it reduces acidity and adds some
minerals. I've also heard
people say that ash can be useful as an anti bug dusting for plants, but
don't know the details. There
is some concern about putting a lot of ash year after year on a
vegetable garden because of the possible build up of heavy metals that
occur naturally in the wood but which concentrate in ash and are
absorbed by the veggies.
As
to what to do with the ash, here are some ideas:
-
use
sparingly on a vegetable garden to reduce soil acidity
-
use
as much as is appropriate on flower gardens
-
keep
some around to use on the driveway to give traction on ice
-
dig
a small pit in the corner of your lot and bury the ash
-
take
the ash to the local waste disposal site (dump)
-
ask
your municipal government if you can put it out with the garbage
I
wouldn't put ash in a compost bin or pile.
Hope
this helps.
John
Is stove black the right
finish for my stove?
Great site! Thanks for all the terrific information.
I am a new wood stove user. I am in search of information for
maintaining my stove. I
know I need to use well seasoned hardwood and keep my chimney clean, but
what else is needed to keep a stove in good working order?
What is stove blackening? What does it do? Is it the same as stove
polish? Are there other products that need to be applied to the outside
of the stove or chimney? Any
help you can provide or point me to other sites will be appreciated.
Thanks, Debra
Hi Debra,
Stove black is
the same thing as stove polish, which is a waxy paste used to make
stoves black and shiny. It is now used only for antiques for a couple of
reasons. First, it's not water proof, so if water lands on the stove it
will rust.
Second, stove polish was used in the old days when stoves were cared
for lavishly and gleamed from being polished on a weekly basis. We don't
do that much any more.
There are some terrific high temperature specialty wood stove paints
in a range of colors that have become the standard way to spruce up
wood stoves. The paint lasts up to five years, depending on how the
stove is used, but you have to take the stove out to the garage to paint
it, so it is a big deal.
Other maintenance tasks include replacement of door and door glass
gaskets and making sure that internal baffles and bricks are in place
and still sound. Not knowing what kind of stove you use makes it hard to
give clear advice on maintenance. One of the best ways to get familiar
with these issues is to hire an experienced chimney sweep to do a
thorough servicing of the stove. After that, you can decide which of the
tasks you can do on your own from then on.
John
How to spruce up a cast iron stove
I have a 10 year old black cast iron wood-burning stove that is still
in good working condition, but needs to be cleaned up a bit on the
outside. I've been told that a thin application of mineral oil will make
it look new and cause a minimal amount of smoke to be emitted on the
first use afterward. Do you have any suggestions for any other cleaning
products or methods?
Debbie
Debbie,
Before the days of reliable heat-proof paint people used stove black, or
stove polish, which was waxy. Applied, left to dry and then polished, it
produced a very nice finish with slightly silvery or metallic highlights
on the castings. But after firing, stove black was not water or
corrosion resistant, so the stove would rust at the slightest
provocation. Maintaining a stove with stove black was just another
routine job for overworked rural women. All this went out of fashion
about 15 years ago when good, reliable, corrosion resistant heat-proof
paints came along.
I would suggest you take the stove out and paint it. It will stink
the first few times you run it so you'll have to open windows. But the
finish will last for several years instead of several weeks as with
stove black. You can paint the stove flat black like it was, then stove
black and polish it if you really want it to look nice. You can get good
stove paint at a fireplace or stove store.
I don't think mineral oil would do much or for very long on a stove
because the oil will vaporize pretty quick.
Regards,
John
Debbie responds:
John,
Thank you for your response. I spent more time on the Internet looking
for cleaning solutions and found reference to both the stove polish that
you described and also the heat-proof paint. It was nice to get some
educated input prior to any purchases. Thank you!
Regards,
Debbie
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